Brakes & Suspension

Can-Alignment is pleased to be offering Nitron Racing Suspensions.

Nitron Racing Shocks

Race R1
Embraced by racers and race series around the world, NTR Race R1 kits provide the answer to uncompromising quality, reliability and performance without the need for a remote canister. A double-acting, single dial offers effortless control over a wide range of damping adjustment; helping to rapidly react and adapt to changing circuit conditions.
Race R3
NTR Race R3 kits set the standard for ultimate performance. The VLN Nurburgring lap-record holding design offers racers and race engineer's precise damping control. Campaigned over some of the most demanding endurance races around the world, Race R3 kits provide reliability and virtually eliminate fade. Available over a wide range of sports, formula and GT platforms.


Supplier for RJS Racing Equipment, Inc.

Can-Alignment recognizes that every racer - whether you're a professional or an amateur hobbiest - requires the appropriate safety equipment to maximize your experience at the track. With RJS Racing Equipment Can-Alignment can ensure that when you go out to the track you will have all of the equipment you require. When you're buying safety equipment you hope you'll never require it; but when you require it, you'll be relieved to know you have quality protecting you. Check out our fabrication page for more information about roll bars and roll cages that are custom built for your application.

Scott preparing to replace bearings and service the brakes on a Volvo.

Today's cars require the technician to constantly update their skills and to be reading current service manuals and updating equipment. At Can-Alignment, Scott is constantly updating his skills. He has extensive training and working knowledge for diagnostics and repair on ABS equipped vehicles.
You will never find a "bargain price advertisement" on brake service at Can-Alignment. He offers full service brake repair with a fair price for work performed. 

The following excerpt is taken from the SSGM magazine article on July 1997 by Scott Murfin:

  Disc Brakes of All Makes:
          Before pushing the calipers back, open the bleeders. Push the old fluid out, not back into the master cylinder. Use the proper lubricant, including anti-seize compound on metal to metal surface and silicone based product on metal to rubber surface. Use the slowest speed possible when machining rotors or put a non-directional cut on disc. Clean the disc thoroughly after machining to remove fine particles of metal.

Corvettes From 1962 to 1982:
           Rotors run-outs are crucial on these cars. On the fronts, machine the rotors with the hubs attached. On the rears, machine the rotors on the car if possible. When installing new rotors, always check run-out. The easiest method of bleeding I have found is as follows: open the bleeders one at time and work on something else. Don't let the master cylinder go empty. If you try pumping, you'll just agitate the air in it and it will stay trapped for days.

1984 to 1986 Corvette:
            In order to bleed the rear brakes, the front of the car must be higher than the rear. This is in order to have the bleeder screws at the high point of the caliper.

Ford Problems:
           Watch for seized rear wheel cylinders. Check them by applying the brakes slowly, while a drum is removed. Insure both shoes move. With regard to Aerostar emergency brake release. Along the left side of the brake handle, there is a handle shaped like a quarter moon. Using a small screwdriver, push on the top of the release. After the rear brakes are completed and adjusted, the emergency brake adjust automatically the first time the handle is applied.

F-Series Truck:
            With a spongy or sinking brake pedal, the problem seems to be a bad master cylinder. Before replacing the cylinder, check for pressure low through the ABS dump valve into the accumulator. If the vehicle pulls to one side when braking be sure to check the radius arm bushings for movement. 

Crown Victoria & Grand Marquis from 1992 to Present:
           The parking brake shoes are in the hat part of the rotor. Remove the rear rotors. To do this, patience is the key. Back down the adjusters for the parking brake. Apply even pulling pressure on the rotors and tap lightly on the hub surface to allow the shoes to release. If forced, damage to the backing plates and shoes will result.

           At the front end, the caliper mount and steering arm share the same bolt. Before removing the bolt, pay particular attention to the placement of the washers. If not put back together properly, a toe problem in the alignment will occur and you will be buying an expensive set of tires.